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Backyardeos tutorials.
Backyardeos tutorials.









backyardeos tutorials. backyardeos tutorials.
  1. #Backyardeos tutorials. pro#
  2. #Backyardeos tutorials. software#

As I use an ASCOM controlled SkyWatcher mount, it is recommended that the ASCOM software is the brains that tells my SkyWatcher mount what to do, rather than directly from the camera. The observant of you will notice that I only have a USB cable coming from the back of my Altair GPCAMv2 130M, despite it having an ST4 port – which is used for guiding. NOTE: ST4 or Pulse Guiding – I do not use the ST4 RJ11 cable, I Pulse Guide I use a parfocal ring attached to the Altair GPCAM, locked into place, and the Orion 50mm does allow for some focus control by rotating the lens at the opposite end, but it isn’t as simple as being able to use a focuser. The only downsides to my guide scope set up are the inability to easily focus and it not having a dew shield. Having a guide scope working overtime is very little compensation for a badly setup, poor mount.

#Backyardeos tutorials. pro#

Whilst all guiding at this level suffers from some kind of flexure (physical movement that could be interpreted as a tracking issue) I’ve found this particular set up is rock-solid, especially with this kit sat on an accurately polar-aligned SkyWatcher EQ6-R Pro mount. Permanently sat on a vixen dovetail attached to my TSAPO65Q.If things moved during a 5 minute exposure, the result is lack of detail and star trails – which is obviously to be avoided at all costs! The result is that – to your main imaging camera – everything is rock-steady and locked on to the target that you’re taking long exposures of. To do this, they auto-guide.Īuto-guiding is the method by which a secondary camera is set to lock on to a target star, and the idea is – if it notices that it moves slightly, it nudges your mount back to where it should be (and these should be minute micro-movements in the realms of sub-pixels). Most of us don’t have a set up this accurate, but are still able to lock on on a faint deep sky object for hours on end (clouds permitting) to grab those valuable photons that eventually make up our images. In an ideal world, we’d set up our telescopes, on our very accurate mounts, that are accurately polar aligned and no matter where we pointed our telescope and camera, we’d be able to lock in on a target for hours on end to capture those faint DSOs without a care for any object slowly drifting out of view.











Backyardeos tutorials.